(we posted this as a comment yesterday, but decided it deserved it’s own post due to the effort he put into it. Thank you Rich!)
My bride and I honeymooned on St. Thomas during the last week in September, into October, 2009. (A little info about us, we might be considered older for newlyweds, me, 42, she, 39.)
From what I gathered, it was nearing the end of the island’s “off-season,” so there were many things closed that would normally be opened, especially during the day, but this did not really bother us.
We stayed at the Morningstar section of the Frenchman’s Reef resort and really, really loved our room. It was 1st floor beachfront, with the patio partially hidden from some shade-producing, beautiful trees. Even with the doors closed and the AC cranked up, the sound of the waves lightly crashing onto the beach put us asleep each night.
Although we didn’t snorkel at the resort, the beach was excellent for swimming and relaxing. We also spent time at both resort pools, and they, too, provided terrific environments.
As far as dining at the resort’s restaurants, we only ate breakfast there, (which was included in our package). The breakfast buffet, including an omelet bar, was very good and offered just about everything you might want for breakfast.
We dined out just about every night — Mojo’s, Lotus, Iggies, Benny Iguanas, Shipwreck Tavern, and Wikked. While we didn’t have a horrible meal out, there were some places we enjoyed much more than others. Our favorites were Wikked (I had the fried snapper — the entire fish — delicious), Mojo’s (all-you-can-eat, grilled chicken and chili nachos), and Iggies (delicious, fresh mahi mahi). We also had some drinks and appetizers at Fat Turtle’s one afternoon, at a bar overlooking the harbor, which we really enjoyed.
I think if we had to rank our favorite days, the top three would involve snorkeling.
Running a close 1st and 2nd place would be Trunk Bay on St. John, and Coki Beach on the island.
We woke up real early one morning, had breakfast, and water-shuttled (a great ride) out of Red Hook over to St. John, by about 9:30. Trunk Bay is in a protected, National Park and it is absolutely beautiful! (There is a minimal fee to enter; I believe $4.00 per adult.)
The snorkeling is excellent, as well, as divers are treated to an underwater pathway that has information stones secured on the bottom of the sea. They describe, in pictures and words, what types of sea life you are observing as you go along. Really unforgettable.
Off of the beach there is a snorkel stand where you can rent anything you need – i.e. snorkel gear, chairs, etc. – and the rental fees are very reasonable. Just adjacent to that, there is a little grill, with a picnic area, that sells light lunch items, such as burgers and chicken sandwiches, as well as soda, beer, and some mixed and frozen drinks. (We had a chicken sandwich, a burger, bag of chips and two Miller Lites for about $20.00. Not too bad.)
Closer to the entrance of the park, there are very clean restrooms and showers. (I suggest bringing a change of clothes, showering and changing before you depart.) The one thing Trunk Bay visitors should remember is the closing time. The rented snorkel gear has to be returned by 3:30, and the park closes at 4:30. Try to get there early and spend the entire day. You will LOVE it!
In 2nd place is Coki Beach. This is another beautiful, simply gorgeous beach. The environment is very, very different than Trunk Bay, however. I will admit, when we were first dropped off at Coki, and told by our taxi driver, “Just go right through that little gate there,” I thought about bagging it, and asking to be driven back to the resort. (The surrounding neighborhood is in bad shape, and the area right around the entrance is quite run down. We are so glad that we decided against leaving, though.)
Upon entering, we made our way to the snorkel stand and met Richard, a huge size of a man – very friendly — who set us up with chairs, snorkel gear and two large dog biscuits (to feed the fish with). The rental fees are about double that of Trunk Bay. I believe snorkel gear and chairs ran about $30.00 for the day. The snorkeling was great. I thought there was many more fish at Coki, compared to Trunk (possibly because of the dog biscuits).
I will now get the negatives out of the way. The bathrooms are bad. There once were showers but they are no longer operating. The facilities are somewhat dirty and smelly. With that being said, you are not going to be spending much time in the restrooms when you are at a place like Coki Beach. The other negative is the general conditions. There is some trash, old boats, broken chairs – things like that – sort of strewn all around. Trunk Bay is absolutely pristine. Coki Beach is somewhat disheveled. However, this was not a big deal to us. If you are a glass-half-full type, you might even allow this to add to the overall ambiance!
The overall environment at Coki Beach, given you take some time to breathe it all in, is purely loveable. First, there are friendly, local women walking the beach as waitresses that will not only bring you sandwiches and drinks, but also provide valuable information on anything ranging from snorkeling tips to St. Thomas history.
There are small, cozy, well-worn wooden shacks set up as a bar and a restaurant grill. They fit right in to the entire scene; very island-esque. The drinks, served in plastic cups, are pricey but tasty. A rum punch and a pina colada will run you $13.00 plus tip. We also split a grilled mahi mahi sandwich, served on a hamburger bun, for $10.00 ($12.00 if we wanted french fries with it). The sandwich was DELICIOUS!
A great selection of fun music plays constantly from the grill area. There is dancing from some locals who are hanging out, as well as the waitresses, who bop along to the tunes as they walk the beach.
We spent an entire day there; from about 10 am until 5 pm. And, when it was time to go, Richard graciously hooked us up with a cab ride home. One’s first impression of Coki must be set aside, and you will surely have a fun-filled, memorable day.
In 3rd place was a snorkel/sail trip on The Fury, a 46-foot ketch. For $75.00 per person, you sail out to Buck Island and swim with sea turtles and sting rays, as well as a variety of fish and coral! The sailboat left right from the Frenchman’s Reef dock. Captain Mike is a great skipper; funny, too, cracking jokes throughout the excursion. Light snacks, sodas, waters, beer, and rum punch are served on the trip back to the resort. We left at 9 am and returned at about 12:30. The total snorkel time is about an hour. A really, really fun time.
On two other days, we walked through the capital town of Charlotte Amalie. For $12.00 per person, round trip, a water taxi, leaving right from the resort dock, takes you over on every half-hour, and back on every hour. Being the end of September, it was extremely hot, and not many places provided relief from the heat. It was a very neat town of narrow streets and alley ways, tent merchants selling t-shirts and locally-made jewelry, and outdoor malls. One thing to know, there was jewelry store after jewelry store after jewelry store with the proprietors standing outside, one after another, trying to lure you in to buy diamonds, gold and silver. It became somewhat annoying, but we managed to laugh about the competiveness of these merchants.
On another day, we hired a taxi driver to take us on a 2 ½-hour tour of the entire island. For $60.00, Jules drove us, in his open-air pick-up truck, throughout St. Thomas, stopping often for picture-taking or beer breaks. He was extremely knowledgeable, informative and thorough. The views were breathtaking from spots high atop the hills. And, the images we captured on our camera are priceless.
The other days were spent on the Marriot’s lovely beach, or at the luxurious pools.
St. Thomas is a beautiful, paradise-like island, and the trip was one that we will soon not forget!
Thanks Rich for your great article about St. Thomas. We look forward to having you back soon. And if there is anyone else out there that would like to submit an article about St. Thomas let me know. You can be a local, tourist, business owner or just someone dreaming about coming. Email it to scott@stthomasblog.com.